A new exhibition in Paris explores how gold has been woven into clothing of different cultures throughout history. The exhibition Au fil de l’or (Golden Thread) opened on February 11 at the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac and will run until the middle of summer. This diverse and impressive collection allows everyone interested to see items from the Middle East, India, Indonesia, China, and Japan.
A magnificent gold Chinese bridal gown by Guo Pei, blending tradition with opulence through intricate craftsmanship and luxurious detailing. Five years of work, eight artisans, and 30 different gold-thread embroidery techniques from around the world were used to create this wedding dress. Photo courtesy of The New York Times.
Gold prices may be the news these days, but the metal itself has inspired plenty of museum exhibitions including this one. Among its highlights is an ancient gold applique from 5,000 B.C. discovered in Varna, Bulgaria. Another significant artifact is a gold-threaded braid dating back to 3,000 B.C., once part of the throne room in the ancient kingdom of Ebla, now in Syria.
A 19th-century Egyptian wedding dress featured in the Golden Thread exhibition. Photo courtesy of The New York Times.
However, not all materials featured in the 321-piece collection are pure gold. Various substitutes were used in the past to achieve a gold-like effect, and the exhibition allows visitors to learn about them and broaden their knowledge. So, what are these unique materials and techniques? Let’s explore a bit more about them:
Sea-silk is made of the fiber beard of the Mediterranean pen shell. The fibers were cut off the mussel, washed, dried, combed, and spun. When treated with lemon juice, the threads acquire a golden hue that remains vibrant over time. The fine textile material is exceptionally light and warm, with a sheen comparable to real gold.
Nephila, golden orb spider, and Golden Spider Silk Cape from The Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Wikipedia photo.
The Madagascar Nephila creates silk that shines like natural gold in the sunlight. Harvesting this silk is a meticulous process: 23,000 spiders are needed to produce 28 grams of such yarn. The threads span from the spider webs are stronger than steel ones of the same thickness.
In Cambodia, a unique species of silkworm produces cocoons with a natural golden-yellow hue. These silkworms consume a specialized diet that give their silk the unique color without dyeing of threads. However, they create less silk because Cambogia worms are not as quick as white hybrid silkworms from China.
Introduced in the 1970s, Lurex is a type of synthetic fiber designed to mimic the appearance of metallic threads, including gold. Lurex fibers are created by coating a core yarn, such as polyester, with a metallic layer, often aluminum, and then sealing it with a protective film. This process results in a flexible, durable thread that reflects light.
It’s a story about gold’s influence over fashion, not a wardrobe exhibition, lead curator explained. She described how long ago, gold was beaten, spun into thread, layered onto textiles and even fused to leather. It proves that people have always been fascinated with this metal and couldn’t resist the desire to incorporate it into fashion.
This dress was crafted over 20,000 hours by 8 artisans, who used 10,000 gold sequins in the intricate weaving and embroidery. Photo courtesy of Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac.
The exhibition doesn’t stop in the past; it leads us all the way to contemporary fashion, which is represented by incredible haute couture pieces. Among the featured pieces are a lavishly embroidered tulle and organza evening dress from Chanel’s 1996 spring couture collection, designed by Karl Lagerfeld, and a statement jacket and skirt from Dior’s 2004 couture Blonds ‘Egyptian Disco’ collection by John Galliano, adorned with mosaic-like embellishments.
The Blonds’ “Egyptian Disco” collection showcases dazzling designs inspired by the legendary Cleopatra, blending ancient Egyptian opulence with modern, high-energy glamour. Photo courtesy of The New York Times.
Guo Pei, a renowned Beijing designer, has contributed 14 designs to the exhibition, and five of them were shown for the first time. One standout piece is a fully embroidered traditional Chinese bridal gown, which is also featured on the exhibition’s promotional materials. One gown made Guo Pei internationally famous: a jaw-dropping yellow outfit that Rihanna wore to the 2015 Met Gala. The final section of the exhibition focuses on Parisian embroidery, displaying 50 creations by Lesage, an atelier known for its collaborations with major fashion houses.
